BFW | Berlin Fashion Week SS25: HIGHLIGHTS 4 / 7

Richert Beil

Celebrating the 10th anniversary of their label Richert Beil with cake on the runway during Berlin Fashion Week in February, Berlin Contemporary winners Jale Richert and Michele Beil presented a “Bademodenschau” (“swimwear show”) with swim floats this season, staying true to their mission of bringing more inclusivity to the fashion world. 

“Our runway show ‘Bademodenschau’ showcases a collection that challenges traditional notions of summer fashion by celebrating inclusivity and comfort for every body,” said the designers. “Inspired by the diverse experiences and preferences of individuals who don’t feel comfortable in typical summer attire, this show aims to redefine the concept of summer fashion by showcasing a reinterpretation of the typical beach look.”

Their inspiration is reflected in the range of designs, from airy silhouettes like water-repellent checkered ensembles and dresses with the inscription “Moin Moin,” which convey a sense of freedom, to tailored pieces such as a long black neoprene coat and crop tops with air cushions that symbolize comfort and protection.

Jale Richert and Michele Beil draw inspiration from the simplicity and authenticity of everyday life, translating these elements into their designs. By incorporating familiar experiences and situations into their collections, they infuse their garments with a sense of relatability and resonance. This approach enables them to create captivating storytelling within their garments, inviting wearers to connect with the narratives behind the looks.

Credit: Richert Beil, Boris Marberg 

Sia Arnika

In a vacant storefront, under harsh neon lights, with aggressive buzzing noises and between fly breeding boxes, Sia Arnika presented her ready-to-wear collection. This season, too, the Danish designer’s looks are characterized by her love for detail and progressiveness. “Everything starts with the fabric, its textures, shapes, deconstruction, and the numerous contrasts that all my collections thrive on: disorder and embellishment, the everyday and the provocative, as well as the art of layering and shaping,” explains the designer.

Her designs are sometimes layered, then completely pure again. Sometimes they are artfully decorated, for example with draped cords, then cutouts take center stage, or fabric manipulations dominate the look. Often the silhouettes cling tightly to the body, then they seem to actively detach from the body again. Flowing fabrics meet clear lines, conveying both strength and softness.

The focus of the numerous sporty outfits was the polo shirt, which Arnika presented in various versions: sometimes as a super-tight halter neck, then layered, reminiscent of an XXL basketball jersey, or with delicate ruffle inlays and partially printed with the phrase “The People Want More.”

This season, Sia Arnika is not only among the winners of Berlin Contemporary but, as announced yesterday, also one of the finalists of the FCG/VOGUE Fashion Fund.

Credit: Sia Arnika, Andrew Thomas 

ODEEH

The grand finale of the second day of Berlin Fashion Week took place in the colonnade of the Altes Museum, where Otto Drögsler and Jörg Ehrlich, the duo behind ODEEH, presented their latest collection. The Berlin Contemporary winners once again showcased highly eclectic designs this season, all united by one thing: artisanal excellence.

Athletic track pants combined with mini blazers, techno fabrics, and abstract, Japanese-inspired floral prints were on display. Classic striped shirts were refined with small rhinestones, while the shimmering threads of two acid-green looks fluttered charmingly in the wind. Particularly chic were the light pink designs with raw edges, adorned with sparkling brooches.

purity and complexity, simplicity and intricacy.

Merging patterns, colors, materials, and styles is firmly embedded in ODEEH’s DNA. What stylistically defines this season’s collection? 

We’re blending a touch of kitsch, some romance, and a hint of toughness. All these elements come together in ODEEH, creating a very harmonious composition. We aim for everything – purity and complexity, simplicity and intricacy. And that’s precisely reflected in our collection.

You love to play with contrasts. Which ones are most significant in this collection? 

Transparency and layerings are key this season. We are extensively experimenting with these elements. Technical fabrics with dynamic surfaces, contrasting textures like crinkled versus shiny and matte. Multi-dimensional compositions and intricate fabric constructions juxtaposed with simple basics like white cotton poplin or silk crepe de chine intrigue us. 

This season, your collection consciously does not carry a title. Why?

We deliberately refrain from titling our collections this season. We prefer not to adhere to themes or titles that prescribe the direction of our new collection. For us, each collection represents a new chapter, embodying the juxtaposition of styles and the creation of wardrobes for women who express themselves in a visible, often unconventional, and always freestyle manner.

We release three drops per season, totaling six annually. Our approach intentionally avoids thematic constraints. Headlines and rigid themes feel limiting to us. Instead, we embrace everything that piques our interest and resonates with our current mood, allowing each element the potential to influence our collection.

spots on this map of creativity

What inspired you this season?

The daily life of a modern, self-defined woman. And always these questions: What does it take to be seen, to be remembered in an abstract way? What does ‘beauty’ or ‘Oh, she looks great’ mean? What are our white and undiscovered spots on this map of creativity?

Your runway show took place in the impressive columned hall of the Old Museum, a Schinkel building. How does such a historical venue influence your fashion?

It is a truly iconic location, with extreme proportions, high ceilings, and a magnificent, marbled backdrop. The historical setting compels us to embrace modernity in every aspect.

Credit: ODEEH, Studio Alexander Fischer 

Marc Cain

The internationally successful fashion company Marc Cain was founded in 1973 by Helmut Schlotterer, Chairman of the Management Board. Today, Marc Cain is a globally operating premium brand for women‘s fashion with its own share of production in Germany. Marc Cain manages its worldwide business from its headquarters in Bodelshausen. The brand combines a sense of aesthetics and art with casualness, innovation, and exclusivity. Marc Cain is a declaration of love to women.

The Marc Cain woman lives today, is self-confident, open, and curious. She loves being a woman and expresses herself through what she wears – feminine and natural. The Marc Cain collections are as versatile as the women who wear them. Fashion that is always a little different. Distinctive and unmistakable.

Every season, the Marc Cain collections are reinterpreted in a contemporary way – with modern design and great attention to detail. The subtle interplay of different materials and silhouettes creates a special tension that defines the unique Marc Cain look – lively, expressive and uncomplicated.

Credit: Marc Cain SS25 Runway by Stefan Knauer

HORROR VACUI

In Latin, “Horror Vacui” means “fear of empty space.” Contrary to this definition, Anna Heinrichs showcased mainly colorful and pattern-rich looks, featuring ruffles, drapery, or smocking, all exuding a highly romantic vibe.

With her runway debut, the Berlin Contemporary winner also celebrates the tenth anniversary of her brand. Heinrichs chose the colonnade at the Museum Island as the runway, whose numerous columns symbolize for the designer the enduring power of love-a central theme in her collection.

“Love’s Continuum”

Your collection is named “Love’s Continuum” and pays homage to love. What inspired you?

The love story of my parents, who passed away last year. The title not only refers to their romantic bond but also their coming together despite and with different, even opposing cultural identities.

Translated from Latin, Horror Vacui means “fear of empty space”. Far from shying away, you boldly embrace fabrics adorned with elaborate patterns across nearly all your looks – a distinctive trademark. 

Which materials, colors, and patterns take center stage this season?

Alongside Horror Vacui classics like cotton poplin, I’ve utilized many silk taffetas, twills, and satins. The entire collection features fabrics I’ve used over the past decade for Horror Vacui. Colors range from pink, yellow, and blue to violet and white. This season, I’m also incorporating black for the first time, perhaps as an intuitive nod to mourning. The silhouettes are flowing and feminine. We’ve seen your signature Millefleur, but there are also monochromatic looks.

Honeycomb Smoking, Froschgoscherl, and scalloped hems

All designs are handcrafted with incredible detail, reviving almost forgotten craftsmanship techniques like Honeycomb Smoking, Froschgoscherl, and scalloped hems. Which looks are your favorites?

One of my favorites is a skirt crafted from thousands of individually hand-stitched hearts. Another standout is the patchwork pieces featuring a sailship motif, composed of over 100 different fabrics from the past decade. The sailship is a central motif in quilt art, such as among the Amish, symbolizing the voyage to America, migration, and transformation. It signifies carrying a cultural identity to a new place, where one passes on their heritage while embracing new influences, thus creating something entirely new. My maternal grandfather’s ancestors were German Mennonites who migrated to Pennsylvania and present-day Ukraine.

At the heart of HORROR VACUI lies a profound respect for the artisanal heritage, encapsulated in the intricate details that define each piece of our collection. Founded by Anna Heinrichs, a visionary designer with a deep passion for traditional craftsmanship, HORROR VACUI has, over the past decade, established itself as a beacon of timeless elegance and sustainable fashion. Our commitment to craftsmanship not only preserves ancient techniques but also imbues each garment with a soul, echoing the hands that brought it to life.

Credit: Horror Vacui SS25 by studioalexanderfischer