A Metamodern Take on the Last Supper
Irina Dzhus‘s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “ANTICON,” was unveiled at Berlin Fashion Week in a performance that transcended traditional runway presentations. Held at the Kabbalah Center, the show drew inspiration from the Last Supper, creating a setting that blended fashion with profound thematic elements.
Live Transformations and Symbolic Fashion
Throughout the performance, Dzhus actively engaged with the audience by reading texts inscribed on the models’ limbs and participating in live transformations of her garments. One notable transformation involved converting a white bandeau top and slim-cut trousers into a restructured halter dress adorned with rainbow colors and paw appliqués. Another highlight was reshaping the brim of a floor-length coat into a halo-like face covering, exemplifying the collection’s versatility and symbolic depth.
Utopia Codes, Conformism, and Inner Refuge
“ANTICON” delves into humanity’s pursuit of happiness through “utopia codes,” addressing themes of sociocultural conformism and personal existential traumas. The collection reflects on the balance between the innate desire for self-discovery and the longing for a sense of home.
Cruelty-Free Couture With Ukrainian Soul
The predominantly off-white color palette symbolizes light and hope, with quilted surfaces encoding hidden rainbows. This design choice serves as a tribute to Dzhus’s own experience fleeing the war in Ukraine, subtly referencing stories of survival and resilience. Additionally, the collection incorporates motifs inspired by various spiritual and religious traditions, including Gnosticism, Kabbalah, Judaism, and Christianity, emphasizing personal values and moral duties.
Fashion as Protest: ANTICON’s Ethical Stand
Dzhus’s commitment to ethical fashion is evident in her use of cruelty-free materials and multifunctional designs that challenge traditional gender roles and social norms. Despite relocating to the EU due to the ongoing conflict in Ukraine, she ensured that the SS25 line was produced entirely by Ukrainian artisans, with 30% of profits donated to Ukrainian animal rights organizations.
In essence, “ANTICON” is a testament to the resilience of the human spirit and the transformative power of art in navigating personal and collective adversity. Discover more Irina Dzhus’ website.
