From poetic storytelling to space-age spectacle
During Berlin Fashion Week MARKE continued its narrative with “Relics & Remnants”, where history, memory and contemporary sportswear collided. Lou de Bètoly transformed her Berlin showroom into an immersive world of couture, craftsmanship and upcycling. Orange Culture celebrated the spirit of Lagos’ Makoko through fluid silhouettes and vibrant colour.
Laura Gerte challenged ideas of virtue with experimental draping and textile manipulation, while Marina Hoermanseder launched audiences into “Outer Space” with sculptural leather, Swarovski details and cosmic energy.
MARKE
With ‘Relics & Remnants’, designer Mario Keine continued the narrative he had begun in the previous season for Spring/Summer 2027. The collection explores how memories shape our perception. At its heart was the solitary wanderer – reminiscent of Virginia Woolf’s Orlando – who, in Mark’s collection, traverses centuries of human history. He exists in a world where past, present and future merge and which follows no chronological order.
The collection referenced the Renaissance with Baroque-inspired underskirts. It also featured voluminous culottes inspired by the Counts of the Rhine. These were contrasted with Victorian white-tie formality. Necklaces, bracelets and decorative details featuring coins and heraldic crosses evoked relics of bygone eras. Furthermore, the label’s signature elements of contemporary sportswear were evident, for example in the form of jogging bottoms and bomber jackets. Read more…
LOU DE BÉTOLY
Credit: Lou de Betoly © 2025 James Cochrane
As part of Berlin Fashion Week, Lou de Bètoly opened her Berlin showroom and showcased her latest collection in a curated setting blending fashion, craftsmanship and installation art. Alongside the ready-to-wear pieces, the display featured accessories. It also included artfully crafted objects. These elements highlighted the brand’s experimental approach to vintage materials. The focus was on lace and textile craft techniques.
A highlight was a bridal-inspired couture piece in sheer lace with floral details, presented in a display case. The presentation once again underlined the label’s ambition to combine couture, upcycling and art into a distinctive signature style. Read more…
ORANGE CULTURE
Built on stilts above the water, Makoko is one of the most distinctive neighbourhoods in Lagos, the home town of Orange Culture. Inspired by this floating architecture, the ‘Water Will Carry Us’ collection was created. It features sheer fabrics and hand-embroidered details. Asymmetrical silhouettes and layering combine vulnerability with strength.
The colour palette ranges from deep, earthy tones to vibrant colours such as blue, yellow and red, which symbolise the unshakeable zest for life that is as palpable in the neighbourhood as it is in the collection. Read more…
LAURA GERTE
Laura Gerte’s new collection, “Lost to Virtue”, explored the destruction of virtue, drawing inspiration from Mina Loy’s feminist manifesto. The designer incorporated these women’s rejection of the virtue imposed upon them into her silhouettes. Many were created not using traditional patterns or construction techniques. Instead, the designer used textile manipulations such as pleating and modular draping.
Hand-dyed vintage silk scarves and semi-transparent fabrics rippled as if they, too, were resisting any form of conformity, yet then clung to the body in an almost protective manner. In this collection, too, Laura Gerte played with the tension between revealing and concealing. Furthermore, some of the pieces, such as the white dresses from the opening looks, were made from upcycled vintage T-shirts. Read more…
MARINA HOERMANSEDER
Marina Hoermanseder presented her new collection, “Outer Space”, at the Haus der Visionäre in Berlin-Treptow. The show opened with a video showing the designer in the cockpit of a rocket ready for launch – when the curtain fell, there was a huge cheer. Musically, an energetic mix of pop, Eurodance, Scooter and the Star Wars soundtrack set the mood.
On the catwalk, a colourful mix of space-inspired looks met sand-coloured, “Dune”-inspired silhouettes made from moulded leather, adorned with Swarovski moon landscapes, Pop Art elements and glass nails by essie x Hoermanseder. Read more…
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